In addition to the usual inspection and servicing of the boat, we recommend that special emphasis be given the following items to prevent unnecessary inconvenience.
These general precautions are listed as follows: Check all wiring for loose connections. Inspect all fuel lines and fittings to be certain that there are no fuel leaks. Check the overflow vent connections. Fill fuel tanks and open the shut-off valves in the lines to the engine. Thoroughly inspect the entire system for leaks, both before and after starting engine.
Check all the stuffing boxes and examine the engine and shaft to assure proper alignment.
Do not leave your new boat unattended until it has been ascertained that all thru hull fittings are securely fastened and that there is no leakage.
Before starting the engine there are some general precautions listed on the next two pages with which you should become thoroughly familiar. For detailed information on your new engine, refer to the Engine Operator's Manual.
Before starting the engine:
After starting the engine:
Water test the boat. After properly warming up the engine, drive at top speed for approximately one minute. Note the general operation of the boat, the engine and the instruments. Follow detailed instructions on Engine Break-In as outlined in your Engine Operator's Manual.
Do not start the engine, until it is certain that the engine and fuel tank compartments are absolutely free from fuel fumes, odors or liquids. Open the engine hatches and check by visual inspection, and by smell, all openings into the bilge. If installed, operate the bilge blower at least five minutes. The hatches should not be closed again until the engine is running smoothly.
If any fuel odors or fumes are detected while running or if engine runs rough, immediately shut down the engine and all electrical devices. Do not restart the engine until the source of fumes has been corrected and the engine and fuel tank compartments ventilated.
We do not intend to cover in full detail everything pertaining to the marine engine in this manual, as all pertinent information pertaining to the engine is covered in the engine operator's manual.
We do however wish to mention that engine life and the performance you receive from your engine depends on the care the engine is given. A good preventative maintenance scheduled and strict adherence to this schedule will assure many hours of pleasant cruising.
Reverse gears are very simple to operate. A lever is used to actuate the gear through a mechanical linkage. Under ordinary conditions the gear should not be engaged when the engine is operating over a moderate idling speed. Engaging the gears at higher revolutions will prematurely wear the clutch plates in forward drive or the brake band in reverse drive resulting in more frequent adjustments and shorter gear life.
It is important to keep the clutch engaged when under sail or being towed to avoid premature wear on the reverse gear. Always position the propeller blades behind the dead wood to reduce drag.
Manual gears have a tendency to creep forward when in the neutral position, this is due to the fact that most manual gears do not have a positive neutral. It is advisable to avoid excessive running of the engine with the gear in neutral as this can result in premature gear failure. Always warm up the engine with the gear engaged in the forward position. Some gears have a tendency toward a backlash noise, especially at the lower engine RPM. This is normal and should cause no alarm. The backlash can be minimized through proper engine tune-up. Check your Engine Operator's Manual for oiling instructions covering the reverse gear.
Reduction gears are used on some models to increase the propeller efficiency. As the name implies, a reduction gear reduces the speed of the propeller shaft permitting the use of a larger propeller while still allowing the engine to run at its rated RPM.
Watch the instruments, they are there for your protection. Much inconvenience and expense can be avoided by frequently checking the instruction panel. These instruments indicate the operation of your auxiliary power plant. Make a routine habit of frequently inspecting the instruments.
The ammeter. The function of this instrument is described in the electrical section on page 7 .
Your engine oil pressure is registered on the oil pressure gauge. The gauge will show the amount of pressure in the system at all times. Also any serious engine trouble can usually be averted by watching the oil pressure gauge.
We cannot stress too strongly the necessity of continually watching the instruments.
Two separate switches are installed in the ignition system. The primary purpose of the key switch is to activate the electrical system of the engine, while the second switch or starter button will engage the starting motor. The main reason for the separate starter switch is to allow the engine to be cranked over to position the propeller blades behind the keel deadwood to reduce drag while under sail.
Your engine is mounted at or below the water line. Engine cooling water is introduced into the muffler thru the water jacketed exhaust line and then discharged overboard. Drains are provided in the muffler and water jacket to permit removal of any water left in the system during lay up.
The shaft stern tube consists of a metal or fiberglass tube thru which the propeller shaft passes. The shaft bearing is located in a housing mounted to the aft end of the deadwood and is a replaceable rubber bearing. A short length of hose which serves as a vibration dampener is used to connect the stuffing box to the stem tube. The main function of the stuffing box is to prevent water from entering the boat thru the stern tube. The stuffing box is packed with waxed hemp rings, these rings are compressed around the shaft by the packing gland retainer. Should it be found that the stuffing box is leaking, it may only be necessary to tighten up on the packing gland slightly. To repack the stuffing box, loosen the retainer, remove the old packing, and replace with new packing. Make sure that the joints are staggered to form a perfect seal. Replace the retainer and adjust properly, do not over tighten the retainer as this could seriously damage the propeller shaft. Should the stuffing box still leak, this could possibly indicate a bent propeller shaft.
The standard propeller supplied with the boat is a specially calibrated propeller that tests and experience have proven to be the best suited for all around service. Frequent inspection of the propeller is suggested. Do not attempt to straighten a bent propeller; this is best performed by an authorized propeller service station with approved equipment.
When replacing a propeller, place it on the shaft, first making sure that the bore and the shaft are free of corrosion and dirt. The key should fit snugly on the sides of the keyway but should have at least . 010 clearance at the top so that the propeller will not be pulled off center and out of balance.